Start curling the wire in the shape you want.Bend the wire inside the wig in a slight curve to help it sit on your head more naturally.I marked the middle point of the wire ahead of time to make sure it was easy to find. Use a measuring tape or ruler from the inside of the wig to ensure it’s just right. Make sure it comes out in about the same spot on each side of the wig. I secured them in the back with hairbands, keeping them separate so that I wouldn’t have to separate them again later. Pull the base wig’s pigtails out of the way.The first wire should be the copper wire if you are using copper. I don’t remember the exact amount, but I think my wire was around 32 feet long. You can do this by measuring out the top curl in the size you want relative to your head, then multiplying by the number of curls you need. Calculate how long your wire should be.Duct tape (black) to help support the wig.To glue on the nylon webbing and glue down tape in weak spots. Can also just use scissors however it will be more difficult. Helps to hide where strips of hair start and end. I don’t actually use them when I wear the wig. I put some in my wig but didn’t end up needing them at all. To help hold the wig in place on your head. Plain scissors can work and are what I used when I styled my wig, but you can also get scissors designed for cutting hair. This makes applying the glue a lot easier, and keeps you from getting too much on your gloves, which can make handling hair difficult. You will want to wear gloves when working with caulk Foil to protect the base wig and to glue wefts on.Hair clips to hold hair in place while working.Make sure to follow all safety warnings that come with your caulk. If not, you will want to buy at least 5 tubes probably. If you have easy access to a hardware store, you can pick it up as you need. I lost track of how many tubes I used exactly, but you will need quite a bit. For copper wire, normal wire cutters will work. If you’re using a different system, I do not know the values so I’d recommend just looking up the conversions. If you are looking for wires in SWG, the same numbers will work as there isn’t a huge difference between the systems and there’s no need to be exact for this project. You could probably get away with just using the steel, however the copper will allow the bottom of the wig to have a more natural bounce to it. I used two kinds of wire on this, 14 gauge copper wire and 12 gauge galvanized steel wires. Make sure whatever brand you buy sticks to itself well. I used less than a roll for the entire wig. Can also substitute any sewing pins, T pins are just the easiest to deal with. T pins to hold the wig to the wig head.For reference if you are buying from another source: according to Arda’s website, the long wefts’ fibers are about 35 in (89 cm) long with an 8 ft (2.4 m) string. I highly recommend getting your wefts from the same company as your base wig so you can make sure they will match. I only used two packs of long wefts for the curls, and then just a tiny bit of a third pack to add in the sides of her bangs, so you could get away with two packs of long wefts and one pack of short wefts. I used my dressform’s stand for this, but you can also make a cheap wig stand by putting a pole in a pot of cement.
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